Day 74: snoqualmie pass and hot springs

Day 74
August 17
11 miles

Scott, Linda and Ryan drive me over to Snoqualmie Pass this morning so I can resume my hike. I feel rested and strong. My shin splint and heel bruise both seem to have healed, and my feet are callused and 'unblisterable' (I hope)! :)

The parking lot is packed when we pull up to the trail head around 10:30. I say my goodbyes, sad to be leaving, but knowing I will see them again in a couple of weeks. My cousin decides to walk a bit of the trail with me, and we start out on a side trail, taking a round about path to get on the PCT. I make a snap decision to take the Goldmeyer alternate trail, which includes some hot springs, and soon realize it's a 1.5 mile road walk to get to the alternate trail head. I say goodbye to my cousin, after doing a quick loop back to the parking lot, and head off down the road.

Even more cars are at the alternate trail head. Uh... I hadn't really anticipated this many hikers on a Sunday, and soon find out that this is one of the most popular day hiking destinations close to the city. I have to pass at least 50-70 hikers on the way up, making my progress slow, but also stroking my ego as I fly past on the incline. I wonder if this is how other thru hikers feel around me...

I take a break at the top of the pass, and understand why people kept saying not to underestimate the climbs in Washington. I'm shoving a snickers bar in my face when a family with two young girls comes up. The mother, Katherine, asks how many miles I'm doing, and when I tell her I'm on the PCT, she gets excited and starts asking me all about my trip. She asks me if I would like some candy, since they bought a bunch in case they needed to cajole their children into hiking. I half-heartedly say I can't take candy from babies, but she insists and comes back with a sackful of packaged candies. I graciously take the Swedish fish, which are amazing, and eat and rest at Snow lake
.

It's only 11 miles to the hot springs, and I planned to get there early, spend a couple of hours and then continue on. But the trail is more difficult than I expected, and I still have 2 miles till the hot springs by the time it's 3pm. I start down a long, rocky section on the trail, climbing over boulders, trying not to twist an ankle, thinking that it might have been easier to just take the PCT.

I switched out my shoes when I was in Seattle, opting to go back to gortex, expecting rain and possibly some snow. Even though they are an 8 (I usually wear a 7) like my Cascadias, they run small, and so are not quite as roomy. I worry about the sizing, but decide to wear them anyway, since my Cascadias have over 1,000 on them, and are starting to wear out. I know from experience in the Sierras that gortex is great as long as it doesn't get wet from the inside. (Foreshadowing)

About a mile and a half from the hot springs I cross a large creek. It looks like there are rocks to hop across, but halfway in I realize there's nothing left to cross on. It's too precarious to turn around or put my sandals on, so I decide to just step in the water and walk across. No big deal. But as soon as I put my foot down I can feel the water pouring in through the mesh tongues on my shoes, and when I get out on the other side I know it was a mistake. The water is just sitting in my shoes, trapped inside by the gortex. I decide to just walk the rest of the way in wet shoes, squelching along the trail.

The hot spring campground feels like walking into a gnome land. They only allow 20 people to get in the springs each day, as they are trying to preserve the integrity of the area. They recommend making a reservation ahead of time, but knowing that the main access road to get there is closed, and not expecting most people to hike in the 11 miles to get there, I feel relatively sure I'll be able to get in.

 I meet with the seasonal caretakers, am told I'm only the 5th person here, and pay the fee to use the springs. They tell me it's a bit of a hike up to the actual springs, and to be aware that they are clothing optional. When I get there I see a guy/girl couple and a lone guy using the springs. They guys are naked and the girl is only wearing bikini bottoms, so I feel like it would be weird to wear clothes in--I settle for just leaving my spandex shorts on. The pools are small, and so no matter where you are you're close to people. I try to act cool and nonchalant, but know that all of us are probably discretely checking everyone else out. It's a little weird to have conversations with each other while naked. But we are elevated beings above such trivialities as nudity...

The spring is amazing, and there is a cave that is half filled with piping hot water, extending back about 30 feet into the rock. I start walking toward the back, the water and cave pitch black, and tell myself there is nothing to fear in this water, while feeling the panic rise inside of me--why does water haunt me so?! When I get to the back I find a small wooden plank acting as a bench, and briefly enjoy the makeshift sauna created by the cave.

By the time I leave the spring it's only 5:30, and I should easily be able to do another 5 miles, but it's too nice to leave, so I pick a campsite and enjoy a relaxing evening next to the river. I plan to wake up early and enjoy another dip in the pools before I head out tomorrow morning, knowing that if I don't force myself to leave I could happily stay for much, much longer.

(Apparently they are always looking for caretakers for the summer and winter seasons...)