Day 21
22 miles
June 25
I hate blisters. More than anything else I can think of. More than spiders. More than evildoers.
Today we went up a huge hill, then down a huge hill, then up another large hill.
Today was the first time I've cried on the trail.
I don't know what's going on with my right foot/leg. My heel is read and enflamed, pain shoots up my leg on every heel strike, and my calf is constantly cramped. I feel as though every day my body is broken down, slightly rebuilt in the night, and then broken down more the next day.
I start to feel as though I'm holding Kacie back. I'm okay on the inclines, but anything even or downhill is killer. And here she is, doing 20 miles every day, like a champ. Wtf?!
Kacie wants to go at least 24 miles today, so we have less of a climb to do tomorrow. It's the last hill, 1 mile to a campsite, 3 miles till our 24 day, and I lose it. Like LOSE it.
I catch up to her as she turns around and the tears start flowing. I'm in too much pain to talk, so we just keep walking until we get to the campsite. I sit down on a log and cry. But it's not a very cathartic cry, and only lasts for a few seconds. I want to cry for hours, but my body is done. We (Kacie) set up camp, and make and eat dinner in the tent to avoid the mosquitoes.
I start to wonder how I'm going to finish this with her specific time table. We go to sleep, and I hate the mess I'm turning into.
Sunday, June 29, 2014
Day 20: camping by an unnamed lake that we thought we would have all to ourselves
21 miles
June 24
The good news: my calf doesn't feel as sore this morning.
The bad: my heel blister on my right foot is getting worse, and I'm inadvertently toe-walking to avoid putting pressure on it, causing my calf to cramp up throughout the day.
We settle into a walking rhythm, dubbing ourselves the Tortoise and the Hare, since I'm a slow but steady hiker, and Kacie likes to hike fast and take breaks. It seems to be working our fairly well for us.
Early in the morning a hiker couple (Freckles and Jawbone) pass us, and then a couple of hours later we pass them as they're napping by a stagnant lake. Haha, we passes other thru hikers! (It only half counts, I realize)
We have a plan to make it to a lake off trail for some water, and then a campsite not too far after that, making it a 21 miles day. Late in the afternoon Freckles and Jawbone start catching up to us, so we start booking it, joking that they're going to take the camping spot. Just then the trail starts to get ridiculously hard. We are both sweating and panting, and finally we give up when we reach the top of a hill, and let them pass. We tell them we're headed to a lake (which they are unaware of), and then we slowly follow after them.
Eventually we come to a small lake, in a valley below us, with no trail down. We see some skree marks down the side of the mountain, and I joke that it was probably Freckles and Jawbone.
We see a camping spot by the lake and decide that once we get down there we should just stay there for the night. We walk another few miles before we come to a road the branches in two directions, one uphill, one downhill, and try to figure out which one leads to the lake.
After a bad incident with a road and water the night before, Kacie decides we should go uphill ( even though that doesn't make much sense to me). We take the gamble, and sure enough, a quarter mile later we reach the lake!
And who is there? Freckles and Jawbone! In the camping spot! They see us and Freckles starts apologizing, saying they saw us walking up on the trail, but figured we were going past the lake since we didn't skree down like they did. She said they were saving the camping spot for us, since we told them we were coming here, but once we walked past they decided to set up camp. They are very nice, but we decide they are enemies.
We root around looking for a spot to pitch tent, and settle on a flat, but extremely dusty area. Blegh.
The lake is not as lovely as we thought, and it's hard to get good, clearish water.
We make a fire, wash ourselves (and socks) in the lake, eat a good meal complete with dessert, and go to bed only slightly cursing the nice couple next to us.
My feet are killing me.
Day 19: Leaving Sierra City!
14 miles
June 23
Finally. Finally we are starting Kacie's section hike. After waiting around for the post office to open and sending out our next resupply box to Belden., we are out of this once quaint, now tiresome town!
Our goal is to do the first 90 miles in 5 days, since that's all the food we've packed.
We get a ride up to the trailhead from the creepy Red Moose guy. A necessary evil, but I hate to feel indebted to him, regardless.
And then begins the switchbacks. It's already close to 11am, and we are roasting. We have 5 miles to climb, most of it unprotected from the sun.
Red Moose dude told us to look out for rattlers, and sure enough, on our third switch back, we hear a rattle and freeze. Kacie sees it first, pointing directly in front of us about 20 feet, to a rattle snake about 3 feet long, directly on the trail. It slowly starts to creep off, and we snap some pictures for proof (Kacie getting closer than I wanted to).
A bit of excitement and then off we trudge up the hill. A couple hours in we come to a crest and mistakenly think we're done with the climb. Ha. Double ha.
We take selfies and admire the view from the top, pointing out buildings below in Sierra City.
And then we just keep climbing. Around 3pm we come to our first water (the other sources we had expected to fill up at were dry), and decide to take lunch. Our German friend REI joins us after a few minutes, and then another hiker, Ninja Tank, joins the party a few minutes after that.
Twelves miles in and we're doing pretty well, until I step off a rock on a downhill portion and feel something small pop in my calf, behind my knee. Suddenly it hurts to fully extend my right leg, and I can't put very much weight on it. Shit.
We trudge along for another 2 miles, Kacie cruising ahead, me limping behind. We decide to set up camp after only going 14 miles, which is less than we planned, but still decent for the day.
Kacie offers to walk the quarter mile off trail to get water for us while I get a fire and dinner going. I'm starting to wonder where she is, when I see her coming up the path, visibly unhappy. Turns out she went the wrong direction for water (it was deceiving), and ended up having to bushwhack her way to a stream and then trudge a mile uphill back to the campsite. We are both in rough shape. I hope things get better soon.
We eat dinner and drink hot chocolate, both feeling slightly less low after hot food, and go to sleep hoping for a better day. Sigh.
Day 18: going crazy in Sierra City.
Just when I'm about to lose my mind re-walking the one street in Sierra City from my tent to the General Store, Kacie shows up!
She was dropped off by Truckee Tim, a random guy I met at a bar in Truckee while watching the World Cup. We got to talking about the trail, and how seemingly impossible it was for Kacie to get a ride to Sierra City, and before I knew it, he had volunteered to pick her up in Reno and drive her up!
They show up around 9am, and I am thrilled to see familiar faces. TT even says he will mail my shoe insoles (that I stupidly left in Truckee) to our next stop, in Belden. I can't believe our luck--who even does this?!
We say our heartfelt goodbyes and thank you's to TT, and spend the rest of the morning introducing Kacie to other hikers and showing her around the town. We can't leave until tomorrow morning, because we have to mail a package to Belden, and the post office doesn't open until 10am.
We organize all of our food, sell some to another hiker, REI, and then relax luxuriously in our beautiful room, taking showers (me), talking about hiking (Kacie). We watch the USA/Portugal game at the bar, getting into it with locals, and then leaving slightly disappointed with the tie.
The owner's son whips us up a rib dinner on request, complete with all the fixings, and we go to bed tired and full, ready for whatever tomorrow's hike will bring (a heck of a climb out of the valley).
Saturday, June 21, 2014
Day 17: another zero in Sierra city. Sorry I'm cranky.
I feel dissatisfied. I want to leave and move on, pressing ever closer to my destination, building up my miles and my legs. I want to stay and heal my blisters and enjoy doing nothing, and watch soccer. I want to feel productive. I want to zone out. Meh
Oh, and because it's the Summer Solstice today, it is tradition to hike naked. How am I missing this?! Hikers are a weird, awesome bunch. I want to be one.
I'm annoyed with the Red Moose, 1) for not making it more clear that they charge to receive packages, 2) for taking an hour and a half to do ANYTHING--make breakfast, give out packages, ect--, and 3) because the old guy continues to vassillate between creepy or assholish.
Maybe I've just been in this small town too long. Too much of a good thing will ruin it. I feel that waiting so long here has ruined this town. I'm annoyed that I had to say goodbye to the coolest group of hikers I've met so far, and know that I will probably never catch up to them. I suppose I miss the comradery of other shamelessly disgusting people. We talk about the most innapropriate things until someone (carrot) spits out their soda from laughing too hard, and then we just keep laughing.
Today is much different than the last few. The town is having their Sesquecentennial (sp?) and suddenly the street is filled with new faces, and everywhere feels crowded. Our perch on the deck of the General Store is no longer ours, and I find it difficult to get in with the other hikers who are left or who just came in. I walk around town, going on a cemetery tour, my blisters doggin me, and the heat making me cranky. I've felt a little cranky all day, and I hope it goes away soon, because I am so excited to have Kacie on the trail with me. However, the prospect of keeping low miles for two weeks is a little disheartening. I'm sure Kacie could do bigger miles, but it's so hard to plan where we should end so that she can get back to Reno easily. I realize that planning to get to Crater Lake on August 9th, might have been an underestimate on my part. I suppose we'll see. Every time I feel like I'm progressing, I end up takin zeros and then workin myself back up to miles. I suddenly feel like all my planning has been shit. I've over estimated how many days btw resupplies, so have been carrying way too much food, and already wish I had a different pack. I think the first few weeks are just all about trial and error, before I find my groove. I hope I find it soon.
Tomorrow morning Kacie gets dropped off by Truckee Tim, and then we will gather all our gear and food, I will pack up a box to send ahead, and then we will spend the day doing nothing. I hope my legs don't wither up before our huge climb out of here on Monday. I think we are in for a bit of a struggle. What a great way to welcome someone to the trail!
Things are dying down, now, and I might attempt to take a nap to get myself out of this funk. Kimchi is going down to Truckee until tomorrow, so I will officially be rolling solo tonight. Sigh. The trail gives, and she takes away.
Addendum: I'm in such a mood I forgot to thank Jackie and Charity for sending me letters!! It was such a treat (when I finally got my packages) to also be handed two letters, filled with nothing but ties to the real world and encouragements. I can't describe how special it made me feel, so thank you thank you, ladies! And it helps to remind me that I am doing something few people are privileged to do; and even on the not-so-awesome days, it's still better than almost anything else. REMEMBER THIS, BREE!
Oh, and because it's the Summer Solstice today, it is tradition to hike naked. How am I missing this?! Hikers are a weird, awesome bunch. I want to be one.
I'm annoyed with the Red Moose, 1) for not making it more clear that they charge to receive packages, 2) for taking an hour and a half to do ANYTHING--make breakfast, give out packages, ect--, and 3) because the old guy continues to vassillate between creepy or assholish.
Maybe I've just been in this small town too long. Too much of a good thing will ruin it. I feel that waiting so long here has ruined this town. I'm annoyed that I had to say goodbye to the coolest group of hikers I've met so far, and know that I will probably never catch up to them. I suppose I miss the comradery of other shamelessly disgusting people. We talk about the most innapropriate things until someone (carrot) spits out their soda from laughing too hard, and then we just keep laughing.
Today is much different than the last few. The town is having their Sesquecentennial (sp?) and suddenly the street is filled with new faces, and everywhere feels crowded. Our perch on the deck of the General Store is no longer ours, and I find it difficult to get in with the other hikers who are left or who just came in. I walk around town, going on a cemetery tour, my blisters doggin me, and the heat making me cranky. I've felt a little cranky all day, and I hope it goes away soon, because I am so excited to have Kacie on the trail with me. However, the prospect of keeping low miles for two weeks is a little disheartening. I'm sure Kacie could do bigger miles, but it's so hard to plan where we should end so that she can get back to Reno easily. I realize that planning to get to Crater Lake on August 9th, might have been an underestimate on my part. I suppose we'll see. Every time I feel like I'm progressing, I end up takin zeros and then workin myself back up to miles. I suddenly feel like all my planning has been shit. I've over estimated how many days btw resupplies, so have been carrying way too much food, and already wish I had a different pack. I think the first few weeks are just all about trial and error, before I find my groove. I hope I find it soon.
Tomorrow morning Kacie gets dropped off by Truckee Tim, and then we will gather all our gear and food, I will pack up a box to send ahead, and then we will spend the day doing nothing. I hope my legs don't wither up before our huge climb out of here on Monday. I think we are in for a bit of a struggle. What a great way to welcome someone to the trail!
Things are dying down, now, and I might attempt to take a nap to get myself out of this funk. Kimchi is going down to Truckee until tomorrow, so I will officially be rolling solo tonight. Sigh. The trail gives, and she takes away.
Addendum: I'm in such a mood I forgot to thank Jackie and Charity for sending me letters!! It was such a treat (when I finally got my packages) to also be handed two letters, filled with nothing but ties to the real world and encouragements. I can't describe how special it made me feel, so thank you thank you, ladies! And it helps to remind me that I am doing something few people are privileged to do; and even on the not-so-awesome days, it's still better than almost anything else. REMEMBER THIS, BREE!
Friday, June 20, 2014
Day 16: Zero in Sierra City
Wake up at 7 and join some other hikers for breakfast. This town has about 10 buildings and a population of 225, and a current influx of 20 hikers. After breakfast we all head to the porch of the General Store, and hang out like a bunch of Hiker Trash. We rule the town, taking over like locust, eating everything we see, only stopping to do laundry, rest and eat again.
We head to the local swimming hole in the afternoon, and enjoy some sun and cold water. I think Carrot is hilarious, and I wish I could keep up with her crew, but even if I wasn't waiting a couple more days for Kacie, I wouldn't be able to maintain 25 to 30 day after day.
After out refreshing soak, we head to the General Store for the biggest burgers I've ever seen. We talk like frat boys, laughing our drinks out of our noses, and enjoying the lack of boundaries between hikers.
I write some postcards and we wait around until everyone is full and we can head to the bar. Most everyone is heading out tomorrow morning; only Kimchi and I are heading out on Monday--she's meeting her sister for a few days and I'm hopeful that Kacie and I can catch her at least for a bit on Monday.
I feel like I won't know what to do with myself tomorrow, and I feel a loss at not getting to know these people better, because I probably won't ever catch up to them again. Such is trail life. Goes as quickly as it comes.
We head to the local swimming hole in the afternoon, and enjoy some sun and cold water. I think Carrot is hilarious, and I wish I could keep up with her crew, but even if I wasn't waiting a couple more days for Kacie, I wouldn't be able to maintain 25 to 30 day after day.
After out refreshing soak, we head to the General Store for the biggest burgers I've ever seen. We talk like frat boys, laughing our drinks out of our noses, and enjoying the lack of boundaries between hikers.
I write some postcards and we wait around until everyone is full and we can head to the bar. Most everyone is heading out tomorrow morning; only Kimchi and I are heading out on Monday--she's meeting her sister for a few days and I'm hopeful that Kacie and I can catch her at least for a bit on Monday.
I feel like I won't know what to do with myself tomorrow, and I feel a loss at not getting to know these people better, because I probably won't ever catch up to them again. Such is trail life. Goes as quickly as it comes.
Day 15: random jeep road to Sierra City
25 miles
I didn't expect to walk all the way to Sierra City today, but 5 miles in to my hike I meet Wiki-wiki and Zombie, two other solo women, and I decide to tag along with them. We're making great time, because Wiki's goal is to do 20 by noon, and she's 12 or so miles in when I start walking with them.
We fly through the day, going faster to reach the next water source, as both Zombie and I are low on water.
We take a lunch break around 12:30, and run into three guys who have caught up to us--Bambi (Zombie's bf), Coughee, and Woody. We all hike together for a few hours, then I stop w the boys to take a break, and British Wil joins us. We book it to Sierra City, three of the guys decided to skree down the mountain, Wil and I decided to take the path down. We end up walking the rest of the way together to town, and by the time we roll in, I know my feet are done. Like done done.
I meet a whole crew of hikers who have known each other since day one. They are a dirty, friendly, funny bunch, and even though I'm a newbie, I few welcomed.
We enjoy $5 showers from the Red Moose, thought the guy asks me if I want the camera on or off, and says other girl can settle her tab w a blow job. He's one of those openly creepy guys, and I laugh it off until it becomes a story w the other hikers and every gets a warning about the creepy guys in Sierra City.
We buy beer and drink behind the church (the only place you can drink if you're not in a bar), and then we head to the only bar in town for frozen burritos, pool and crazy conversation. We go to sleep late, and I feel grateful to have run into this group. I sleep warm for the first time on the trail.
I didn't expect to walk all the way to Sierra City today, but 5 miles in to my hike I meet Wiki-wiki and Zombie, two other solo women, and I decide to tag along with them. We're making great time, because Wiki's goal is to do 20 by noon, and she's 12 or so miles in when I start walking with them.
We fly through the day, going faster to reach the next water source, as both Zombie and I are low on water.
We take a lunch break around 12:30, and run into three guys who have caught up to us--Bambi (Zombie's bf), Coughee, and Woody. We all hike together for a few hours, then I stop w the boys to take a break, and British Wil joins us. We book it to Sierra City, three of the guys decided to skree down the mountain, Wil and I decided to take the path down. We end up walking the rest of the way together to town, and by the time we roll in, I know my feet are done. Like done done.
I meet a whole crew of hikers who have known each other since day one. They are a dirty, friendly, funny bunch, and even though I'm a newbie, I few welcomed.
We enjoy $5 showers from the Red Moose, thought the guy asks me if I want the camera on or off, and says other girl can settle her tab w a blow job. He's one of those openly creepy guys, and I laugh it off until it becomes a story w the other hikers and every gets a warning about the creepy guys in Sierra City.
We buy beer and drink behind the church (the only place you can drink if you're not in a bar), and then we head to the only bar in town for frozen burritos, pool and crazy conversation. We go to sleep late, and I feel grateful to have run into this group. I sleep warm for the first time on the trail.
Day 14: Donner's Pass to jeep road
18.6 miles
I get a late start today, not getting on the trail until 8:40, because we have to go back up to Donner's Pass. Freeloader, drives me back up, after a great cup of coffee. We see Reno Dave again, shoot the shit for a bit, and then I take off. I pass the whole day alone, briefly running into "Not A Chance" and Guthrie, whom I recognize from Carrot Quinn's blog. A couple of miles beforehand, I had seen a letter written by Carrot to her crew. She's trail famous, and I decide I want to meet her in Sierra City. I stop around 5:30, and make camp near what I later come to realize is a jeep road. I hadn't seen it before I set up camp, but I hear cars going past until 8:30, and it's weird to be so far from anything and hearing voices and cars all night.
Last night I woke up in Freeloader's guest bedroom, and for a full 5 minutes I had no idea where I was. I thought that I was on the trail, and I had fallen asleep without setting up my gear. I search widely for my pack, my light, anything. I sweep my hand over the bed, not realizing it's a bed until a few minutes pass. Finally it becomes clear where I am, and I settle down only to have a fitful rest of the night.
I sleep cold again tonight, but at least it's devoid of dreams.
I get a late start today, not getting on the trail until 8:40, because we have to go back up to Donner's Pass. Freeloader, drives me back up, after a great cup of coffee. We see Reno Dave again, shoot the shit for a bit, and then I take off. I pass the whole day alone, briefly running into "Not A Chance" and Guthrie, whom I recognize from Carrot Quinn's blog. A couple of miles beforehand, I had seen a letter written by Carrot to her crew. She's trail famous, and I decide I want to meet her in Sierra City. I stop around 5:30, and make camp near what I later come to realize is a jeep road. I hadn't seen it before I set up camp, but I hear cars going past until 8:30, and it's weird to be so far from anything and hearing voices and cars all night.
Last night I woke up in Freeloader's guest bedroom, and for a full 5 minutes I had no idea where I was. I thought that I was on the trail, and I had fallen asleep without setting up my gear. I search widely for my pack, my light, anything. I sweep my hand over the bed, not realizing it's a bed until a few minutes pass. Finally it becomes clear where I am, and I settle down only to have a fitful rest of the night.
I sleep cold again tonight, but at least it's devoid of dreams.
Tuesday, June 17, 2014
Day 12-13: Sierra Club hut to Donner's Pass to Truckee
6 miles + 12 around town
We finally got up and moving, and I was ready by 9:30, so headed out first, knowing that Milestone would soon catch up with me. We only had 6 miles to Donner's Pass, where I was planning on hitching a ride into Truckee (about 9 miles East), and Milestone was planning on continuing on toward Sierra City.
The first 5 miles went fairly quickly, although we were both a little surprised there were more uphill sections than we had anticipated.
The last mile was filled with mass amounts of Day Hikers walking toward us. Some of them would ask if we were thru hikers (I stay relatively silent in these encounters, because I feel self-conscious saying that I'm just doing a large section, after everyone is so in awe after Milestone says he's walked from Mexico.) I'm realizing it's hard coming on to the trail in the middle. You don't have the same easy report with other hikers who have gone through the most intense early sections like the desert and the high Sierras. Maybe after 500 or so miles, I won't feel quite so self-conscious.
We make it to Donner's pass around noon, and just as Milestone warned me, everyone is just arriving, and it is basically impossible for me to get a hitch. There are tons of people around, but no one who is ready to leave and head back to Truckee, and those driving past just won't stop.
Other day hikers start to take pity on me, waiting with me and encouraging me every time a car starts to come into view. A couple of guys (who were finished hiking, but going the other direction) strike up a conversation with me, and hearing me talk about the All-you-can-eat Sushi place in town that I'm planning on hitting up, one of the guys asks if I'm hungry. I feel like an orphan--Yes, I'm hungry! I'm always hungry! I have food in my pack, but he says he has a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and lunch he won't eat. I pause for about 30 seconds, ready to decline the offer, but instead, what comes out of my mouth is "yes, that would be so nice, thank you!" I'm not destitute or starving, but as soon as he pulls out the brown bag sack and hands it over, I tear into the sandwich like I haven't eaten in days. I'm slightly aware of how ridiculous I might look, but he seems happy to have shared his lunch with a hungry hiker, and I want to show my appreciation by graciously enjoying it in front of him. Half of the sandwich consumed, a car pulls up near us, and I rush over to the older couple and ask them if they're headed to Truckee. I feel bad for harassing people, but not bad enough to stop.
They notice that I've been talking to Milestone, and ask how many are in my group--I say it's just me, and they are far more receptive to giving me a ride. For once it's better to be a girl on the trail. The couple is very friendly, and we have a nice little chat int he 10 miles it takes to drive to town. It's weird when you think about miles everyday, and how long it will take you to get to any given spot, and then suddenly you're wooshed along across a road, covering a distance in 20 minutes, that would normally take me half a day. IT makes you grateful--both to your body and your situation; I hope I remember this feeling when I have a car again. And I hope it makes me consider how I use it.
I've been in contact with a Trail Angel who lives in Truckee, and his policy is that once you get here, he'll host you for however long. I give him a call after the couple drops me off, and he tells me it will be around 6pm before he's able to pick me up. I sit on a bench and eat the rest of my gifted lunch, and feel a bit like a homeless person, as people give me second glances, and I realize that my clothes are filthy, my face and hands are dirty, and I smell not that great. Only when you come into the city from the trail do you feel really aware of how disheveled and gross you must be.
After my delicious lunch (bread!!) I head into the Visitor Center to use their free wifi, and clean myself up in the bathroom. Now I REALLY feel like a homeless person; washing my face and arms in the sink, as other women stare at me. Eh, let them wonder. "Freeloader" (Tom) picks me up at 6, and we head to the store to get stuff for dinner. He's adamant that I choose whatever I want--"do you want ice cream? A pie? Milk or orange Juice? Do you want pancakes in the morning? etc" I'm a bit overwhelmed by the food choices being thrust upon me (I hate making decisions in general, and this is just way too much), and feel guilty that I didn't bring in any money to pay for food. I opt for the less is more mentality, and tell him I am really easy going with food. He seems to want me to be voraciously grabbing at items at the shelves. In the end we get the ice cream, pie, and pancake mix, but I opt for water over alcohol/milk/juice, and he picks up a variety of other items. At dinner he piles food on my plate, and I eat it obediently, not feeling as hungry as I was, but still impressed that I can eat three portions of dinner. He has a friend, Don, who is also staying with him, and I enjoy my evening discussing sustainable housing with Don, and he gives me tips for my own sustainable dream home.
The next morning Freeloader drives me to the post office (which is the reason I came into Truckee) to pick up some packages of gear I want to switch out. The one piece of gear that I desperately need (a battery pack for my phone, since my solar charger stopped working), is not there. After a long conversation with UPS, they tell me they can guarantee it will arrive at Freeloader's house the next day. (fingers crossed)
I spend the rest of the day hanging out at the Visitor Center, walking around town, grabbing lunch and watching the USA vs Ghana game (!!!). I meet "Beowolf" at the Visitor Center, and while I have heard about him, this is the first time I've met him. He's a really nice guy, but says he has to get off the trail and head back to New Hampshire due to money issues, and not being able to complete the trail before his next job starts. We chat for a while, and then he grabs a train out of Truckee, and I head off on my search for food and soccer-watching.
It's about a 4 mile walk back to Freeloader's house, which has suddenly become synonymous with a "short stroll". When did anything under 5 miles start to sound too short to drive? Freeloader passes me about halfway to his house, but I wave him on, enjoying the walk and the time to catch up with people on the phone. More large dinner portions, more interesting conversation, and it's to bed, sleeping in comfort and warmth.
Today has been much like yesterday. I walked into town this morning, making phone calls to solidify travel plans for Kacie and I, grabbing a salad at a coffee shop and watching the Brazil vs. Mexico game. I'm using the Truckee Library (which consists of one large room of books, and two computers) to post, and now I'm off to grab a beer and see if I can catch another soccer game. I think it's going to be especially hard to hit the trail again tomorrow. It's so easy to get sucked into the ease of technology being right at your finger tips, of getting any type of food that you want whenever you want it, of smoothies and crafted coffee, of TV sports games and soft cushy beds, and mostly of hot showers. It gets harder and harder to leave these conveniences. I should really STOP coming into towns! But, I'm doing this for enjoyment and fun, after all, and town stops are a part of the social aspect of the greater PCT community. So...I'll enjoy it while I have it.
We finally got up and moving, and I was ready by 9:30, so headed out first, knowing that Milestone would soon catch up with me. We only had 6 miles to Donner's Pass, where I was planning on hitching a ride into Truckee (about 9 miles East), and Milestone was planning on continuing on toward Sierra City.
The first 5 miles went fairly quickly, although we were both a little surprised there were more uphill sections than we had anticipated.
The last mile was filled with mass amounts of Day Hikers walking toward us. Some of them would ask if we were thru hikers (I stay relatively silent in these encounters, because I feel self-conscious saying that I'm just doing a large section, after everyone is so in awe after Milestone says he's walked from Mexico.) I'm realizing it's hard coming on to the trail in the middle. You don't have the same easy report with other hikers who have gone through the most intense early sections like the desert and the high Sierras. Maybe after 500 or so miles, I won't feel quite so self-conscious.
We make it to Donner's pass around noon, and just as Milestone warned me, everyone is just arriving, and it is basically impossible for me to get a hitch. There are tons of people around, but no one who is ready to leave and head back to Truckee, and those driving past just won't stop.
Other day hikers start to take pity on me, waiting with me and encouraging me every time a car starts to come into view. A couple of guys (who were finished hiking, but going the other direction) strike up a conversation with me, and hearing me talk about the All-you-can-eat Sushi place in town that I'm planning on hitting up, one of the guys asks if I'm hungry. I feel like an orphan--Yes, I'm hungry! I'm always hungry! I have food in my pack, but he says he has a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and lunch he won't eat. I pause for about 30 seconds, ready to decline the offer, but instead, what comes out of my mouth is "yes, that would be so nice, thank you!" I'm not destitute or starving, but as soon as he pulls out the brown bag sack and hands it over, I tear into the sandwich like I haven't eaten in days. I'm slightly aware of how ridiculous I might look, but he seems happy to have shared his lunch with a hungry hiker, and I want to show my appreciation by graciously enjoying it in front of him. Half of the sandwich consumed, a car pulls up near us, and I rush over to the older couple and ask them if they're headed to Truckee. I feel bad for harassing people, but not bad enough to stop.
They notice that I've been talking to Milestone, and ask how many are in my group--I say it's just me, and they are far more receptive to giving me a ride. For once it's better to be a girl on the trail. The couple is very friendly, and we have a nice little chat int he 10 miles it takes to drive to town. It's weird when you think about miles everyday, and how long it will take you to get to any given spot, and then suddenly you're wooshed along across a road, covering a distance in 20 minutes, that would normally take me half a day. IT makes you grateful--both to your body and your situation; I hope I remember this feeling when I have a car again. And I hope it makes me consider how I use it.
I've been in contact with a Trail Angel who lives in Truckee, and his policy is that once you get here, he'll host you for however long. I give him a call after the couple drops me off, and he tells me it will be around 6pm before he's able to pick me up. I sit on a bench and eat the rest of my gifted lunch, and feel a bit like a homeless person, as people give me second glances, and I realize that my clothes are filthy, my face and hands are dirty, and I smell not that great. Only when you come into the city from the trail do you feel really aware of how disheveled and gross you must be.
After my delicious lunch (bread!!) I head into the Visitor Center to use their free wifi, and clean myself up in the bathroom. Now I REALLY feel like a homeless person; washing my face and arms in the sink, as other women stare at me. Eh, let them wonder. "Freeloader" (Tom) picks me up at 6, and we head to the store to get stuff for dinner. He's adamant that I choose whatever I want--"do you want ice cream? A pie? Milk or orange Juice? Do you want pancakes in the morning? etc" I'm a bit overwhelmed by the food choices being thrust upon me (I hate making decisions in general, and this is just way too much), and feel guilty that I didn't bring in any money to pay for food. I opt for the less is more mentality, and tell him I am really easy going with food. He seems to want me to be voraciously grabbing at items at the shelves. In the end we get the ice cream, pie, and pancake mix, but I opt for water over alcohol/milk/juice, and he picks up a variety of other items. At dinner he piles food on my plate, and I eat it obediently, not feeling as hungry as I was, but still impressed that I can eat three portions of dinner. He has a friend, Don, who is also staying with him, and I enjoy my evening discussing sustainable housing with Don, and he gives me tips for my own sustainable dream home.
The next morning Freeloader drives me to the post office (which is the reason I came into Truckee) to pick up some packages of gear I want to switch out. The one piece of gear that I desperately need (a battery pack for my phone, since my solar charger stopped working), is not there. After a long conversation with UPS, they tell me they can guarantee it will arrive at Freeloader's house the next day. (fingers crossed)
I spend the rest of the day hanging out at the Visitor Center, walking around town, grabbing lunch and watching the USA vs Ghana game (!!!). I meet "Beowolf" at the Visitor Center, and while I have heard about him, this is the first time I've met him. He's a really nice guy, but says he has to get off the trail and head back to New Hampshire due to money issues, and not being able to complete the trail before his next job starts. We chat for a while, and then he grabs a train out of Truckee, and I head off on my search for food and soccer-watching.
It's about a 4 mile walk back to Freeloader's house, which has suddenly become synonymous with a "short stroll". When did anything under 5 miles start to sound too short to drive? Freeloader passes me about halfway to his house, but I wave him on, enjoying the walk and the time to catch up with people on the phone. More large dinner portions, more interesting conversation, and it's to bed, sleeping in comfort and warmth.
Today has been much like yesterday. I walked into town this morning, making phone calls to solidify travel plans for Kacie and I, grabbing a salad at a coffee shop and watching the Brazil vs. Mexico game. I'm using the Truckee Library (which consists of one large room of books, and two computers) to post, and now I'm off to grab a beer and see if I can catch another soccer game. I think it's going to be especially hard to hit the trail again tomorrow. It's so easy to get sucked into the ease of technology being right at your finger tips, of getting any type of food that you want whenever you want it, of smoothies and crafted coffee, of TV sports games and soft cushy beds, and mostly of hot showers. It gets harder and harder to leave these conveniences. I should really STOP coming into towns! But, I'm doing this for enjoyment and fun, after all, and town stops are a part of the social aspect of the greater PCT community. So...I'll enjoy it while I have it.
Fun round table discussion of past PCT thru-hikers taking place in Truckee...too bad it's a few days from now.
I get to cuddle with Freeloader's dog, Cayenne, which is no substitute for my dog, Ellie, but it's something.
Oh, the Truckee Library. Oh cute and quaint and tiny. Thanks for your computers!
Monday, June 16, 2014
Day 11: Northfork Creek to Sierra club hut near Donner's pass
20.4 miles/ 112 total
"Juicy" strolls into my campsite about 6pm last night and decides to set up camp. He's dirty and too tan, but is the first honestly attractive person I've seen on the trail. I'm already hunkered down for the night, and am making conversation by peaking my head out of my tent. He comments on the fire pit, and I tell him if there's a fire, I'll probably come out of my tent. Fifteen minutes later I am outside, enjoying the fire and new conversation. He's 24, and a bit of a hotshot, but we laugh and joke with each other, and I find myself enjoying the company. I trade him a piece of chocolate for a fresh flour tortilla, and we both warm up a tortilla over the fire, and comment that it's the best thing in the world. We stay up until almost 8:30, though we both said we wanted to go to sleep early. He's planning on doing 26 miles tomorrow to get to Donner's Pass and the small restaurant there that gives PCT hikers a free beer. Suddenly I'm wondering if I could do 26 miles, too, but I go to bed thinking probably not. He wakes up at 4:30, is out of the campsite by 5. I've been awake for a couple hours (as per usual) because I'm so cold, but my stomach has been churning, so I pull my sleeping bag up over my head, and toss and turn until 7:30. I'm out of camp by 8:14, having had to go to the bathroom a number of times already, and am convinved I have Giardia. I still want to make it to that restaurant today, but I know it would be a hard press.
My stomach starts to ease up, and I make 9 miles by noon, feeling strong for the first time on the trail. At a trailhead marker I see a piece of paper with my name on it--it's from Bernadette! She says she missed the campsite, and eneded up camping a few miles north. She apologizes for missing it, and I am sad that I won't be able to say a proper goodbye to her.
I stop at a creek to drain some blisters (gross), retape them, and cram some food in my mouth, and am back on trail in 15 minutes. Less than a quarter mile ahead I see two guys sitting on a log. One of them looks dirty and has a beard, and the other is older and clean cut. As I get closer, I recognize the bearded guy as "Milestone", who passed by my campsite last night and said hello. The other guy is "Reno Dave", and Milestone stops me by pointing and saying "look!" I look down toward Dave and see a bear canister filled with PBR and sodas. TRAIL MAGIC!
Well, I MUST partake in my first trail magic, so I grab a PBR and join Milestone on the log. Two beers later, my itinerary shot, I leave with Milestone and thank Reno Dave for the drinks.
We start to make conversation, and soon we're a team. He waits for me at the top of high climbs, and though I tell him to go ahead, he says the trail magic changed his plans for the day, and he's happy to walk with me. He's funny, and soon we're reassessing our stopping point for the day. He says he knows of a Sierra Club hut about 11 miles ahead, which would put me at 20 miles for the day (!!!), and since I'm feeling good, we make plans to head there. I see some lovely flowers along the trail--5 points for anyone who can correctly identify each plant and tell me what they are!
It turns into a long day, a fair amount of uphills and downhills, and 16 miles into my day I'm starting to feel tired. We take a break and Milestone tells me we're about 4 miles away, but the next 2.5 miles are all uphill. Steep uphill. I tell him to go ahead without me, and to make a fire when he gets to the hut. As he walks away, my stomach starts to cramp. Because why wouldn't it? I am making it to that cabin tonight, no matter what. Giardia be damned!
The last two miles end up being the worst. I finally get to the top of the crest, after a decent climb, only to be met with high, cold winds and no tree protection. I usually love crest walks, but this one sucks. I don't even want to take off my pack and get my jacket because I'm afriad I'll get blown off or my jacket will fly away. The trail keeps getting harder. We dip back down to the tree line, only to be met with a bit more snow, and then a mile of large, shale-like rocks covering the trail, shifting underfoot, like 5,000 twisted ankles waiting to happen.
I get to the milemarker Milestone told me the cabin would be at, and I see a large arrow drawn on the trail, point up the side of the mountain. There is no trail up the mountain, so I dig my feet into the leaves and pine cones and start walking up. Finally, I see a stone cabin, and Milestone waiting outside, cutting firewood! WOOT!
It looks really lovely from the outside, but when I walk in, I'm shocked. It is a wreck inside--broken concrete floor, rusted metal bunk beds folded up on the walls without mattresses, a grungy table, and a "kitchen" area with pots and pans and more scat and mouse droppings than I've seen on the entire trail. Umm....
Milestone tells me there is a loft space up the latter that consists of a fairly clean wood floor, and we decide we will be sleeping up there tonight. He gets a fire going, we make hot meals, and joke about our mutual propensity toward hypochondriasis (he also had a Giardia scare, so we laugh about how it's not real until you shit yourself. I cross my fingers and hope for the best). I tell him we'll probably get Hantavirus from all this mouse poop, so not to look up the symptoms until he's donw with the trail, just in case he then starts to feel all of them once he knows what to expect. It's hard not to assume the worst (ie, that you're dying) when you're on the trail, 70 miles from civilization.
We hang his bag with all of our food from the ceiling, hopeful that it will prevent all the mice we've seen from getting into it, set up our stuff upstairs, and share a joint in front of the fire as we stare out at the amazing sunset. Since the ladder up to the loft is fairly treacherous, we both decide to put a pot up there to serve as an emergency "pee bucket", instead of havign to navigate the ladder and animal menagerie in the dark. We go to sleep laughing and warm, only to be woken up by what sounds like a rock band being played on pots and pans. The creatures making this racket are not mice. Milestone peaks his head down the loft hole and sees nothing. We're both a little freaked out, and now I have to pee. Of course. I choose the pee bucket, because what's a little pee between best trail friends. It's harder than one might think, but eventually it happens, both of us laughing the entire time. I empty the pot out of the window, like a seen from 19th century London, calling "look out below!" And this is how I get my trail name "P.I.B". So now I have a trail name with a story... lol
We try to go back to sleep, whipping our heads to look at each other each time we hear a giant crash. We imagine a troop of animals linking together, trying to reach our food bag, and we laugh and go to sleep, trying not to think about mice and other animals crawling on us in our sleep.
We wake up cold, but neither one of us wants to get up and go. We only have 6 miles to Donner's Pass, so we take our time, sleeping late and getting ready slowly.
"Juicy" strolls into my campsite about 6pm last night and decides to set up camp. He's dirty and too tan, but is the first honestly attractive person I've seen on the trail. I'm already hunkered down for the night, and am making conversation by peaking my head out of my tent. He comments on the fire pit, and I tell him if there's a fire, I'll probably come out of my tent. Fifteen minutes later I am outside, enjoying the fire and new conversation. He's 24, and a bit of a hotshot, but we laugh and joke with each other, and I find myself enjoying the company. I trade him a piece of chocolate for a fresh flour tortilla, and we both warm up a tortilla over the fire, and comment that it's the best thing in the world. We stay up until almost 8:30, though we both said we wanted to go to sleep early. He's planning on doing 26 miles tomorrow to get to Donner's Pass and the small restaurant there that gives PCT hikers a free beer. Suddenly I'm wondering if I could do 26 miles, too, but I go to bed thinking probably not. He wakes up at 4:30, is out of the campsite by 5. I've been awake for a couple hours (as per usual) because I'm so cold, but my stomach has been churning, so I pull my sleeping bag up over my head, and toss and turn until 7:30. I'm out of camp by 8:14, having had to go to the bathroom a number of times already, and am convinved I have Giardia. I still want to make it to that restaurant today, but I know it would be a hard press.
Well, I MUST partake in my first trail magic, so I grab a PBR and join Milestone on the log. Two beers later, my itinerary shot, I leave with Milestone and thank Reno Dave for the drinks.
We start to make conversation, and soon we're a team. He waits for me at the top of high climbs, and though I tell him to go ahead, he says the trail magic changed his plans for the day, and he's happy to walk with me. He's funny, and soon we're reassessing our stopping point for the day. He says he knows of a Sierra Club hut about 11 miles ahead, which would put me at 20 miles for the day (!!!), and since I'm feeling good, we make plans to head there. I see some lovely flowers along the trail--5 points for anyone who can correctly identify each plant and tell me what they are!
I get to the milemarker Milestone told me the cabin would be at, and I see a large arrow drawn on the trail, point up the side of the mountain. There is no trail up the mountain, so I dig my feet into the leaves and pine cones and start walking up. Finally, I see a stone cabin, and Milestone waiting outside, cutting firewood! WOOT!
It looks really lovely from the outside, but when I walk in, I'm shocked. It is a wreck inside--broken concrete floor, rusted metal bunk beds folded up on the walls without mattresses, a grungy table, and a "kitchen" area with pots and pans and more scat and mouse droppings than I've seen on the entire trail. Umm....
Milestone tells me there is a loft space up the latter that consists of a fairly clean wood floor, and we decide we will be sleeping up there tonight. He gets a fire going, we make hot meals, and joke about our mutual propensity toward hypochondriasis (he also had a Giardia scare, so we laugh about how it's not real until you shit yourself. I cross my fingers and hope for the best). I tell him we'll probably get Hantavirus from all this mouse poop, so not to look up the symptoms until he's donw with the trail, just in case he then starts to feel all of them once he knows what to expect. It's hard not to assume the worst (ie, that you're dying) when you're on the trail, 70 miles from civilization.
We hang his bag with all of our food from the ceiling, hopeful that it will prevent all the mice we've seen from getting into it, set up our stuff upstairs, and share a joint in front of the fire as we stare out at the amazing sunset. Since the ladder up to the loft is fairly treacherous, we both decide to put a pot up there to serve as an emergency "pee bucket", instead of havign to navigate the ladder and animal menagerie in the dark. We go to sleep laughing and warm, only to be woken up by what sounds like a rock band being played on pots and pans. The creatures making this racket are not mice. Milestone peaks his head down the loft hole and sees nothing. We're both a little freaked out, and now I have to pee. Of course. I choose the pee bucket, because what's a little pee between best trail friends. It's harder than one might think, but eventually it happens, both of us laughing the entire time. I empty the pot out of the window, like a seen from 19th century London, calling "look out below!" And this is how I get my trail name "P.I.B". So now I have a trail name with a story... lol
We try to go back to sleep, whipping our heads to look at each other each time we hear a giant crash. We imagine a troop of animals linking together, trying to reach our food bag, and we laugh and go to sleep, trying not to think about mice and other animals crawling on us in our sleep.
We wake up cold, but neither one of us wants to get up and go. We only have 6 miles to Donner's Pass, so we take our time, sleeping late and getting ready slowly.
Sunday, June 15, 2014
Day 10: Richardson lake to North Fork creek
10 miles/ 91.6 total
Beacon leaves early, shooting for 20 miles, and Bernadette and I enjoy a later breakfast, having both decided to go to that 10 mile spot today. She heads out at 8; I stay behind to do a final sweep and lock up (you have to barricade the front door, climb up the loft, then out the second story window and down the outside ladder; quite the production), and leave about 8:30. I'm expecting to get to camp by 2pm at the latest, so I take the hike fairly leisurely.
About 4 miles in I come to an unpacked jeep road. I start to cross, and hear motors in the distance, and without even thinking about it I run to the other side and up into the woods, like a nervous animal. Sometimes you just do what your gut says and don't ask why. I never did see if a car came by, or not.
The elevation gains are not bad today, so even going slowly I'm making good time. Around the 7 mile mark, near the trailhead to Barker Pass, I come up to another larger, but still unpaved, road. A car drives past and pulls off to the side, just as I climb up to the lip of the road. An older woman opens her door and nods at me. I stop to say hello, and she has some questions about the route I just did, telling me her and her husband are coming out in a few days for a 2 week hike, and she's just caching food and water along the way. She asks a bit about my hike, and I turn on my phone to give her mile markers for different water sources, and realize that my phone has service! I tell her I should check in w my mom, but no call is going through. She offers to let me use her phone, but still nothing. She tells me that when she heads back down into the service area she'll call my mom and tell her I'm alright. Thank you, kind lady! (I never even got her name).
Heading up to Barker pass I run into another older couple as I walk into a clearing to get a picture of Lake Tahoe. They talk my ear off (in a nice way), and tell me they're pretty sure they met Cheryl Strayed (author of Wild) back in the 90s, at this very spot, when she was doing her hike. Not sure how likely it is, but it would be a fun coincidence!
Chatting with these people, while enjoyable, has set me back an hour, but I'm still on track to make it there by 2. I come down Barker Pass, and low and behold: snow! It's fairly manageable and melting quickly, so it doesn't slow me down too much. Will today be the last of the snow?! My gut says no, but at least it's far less than was there a week ago! I sail down the rest of the trail, looking forward to catching up w Bernadette and hearing how her day was. I get to the campsite, and it's empty.
There is no way I could have passed her, unless she took an extended break off trail. Then I worry that she didn't realize this was the campsite (not having gps) and kept going further. I walk a bit further down the trail and call her name. I'm surprised at how incredibly disappointed I am to not have her here. I quickly decide whether I want to do 8 more miles to the next water and campsite. It's only 2pm, and it seems weird to end the day this early, by myself, but I decide to do it anyway. It's like taking a half zero, and I hope my feet and shoulders will pay me back later. I decide it's laundry, bath, and journal day. I'm done with everything by 4...now what?! Relax, enjoy the sun, eat, go to bed, and do it all again tomorrow.
Beacon leaves early, shooting for 20 miles, and Bernadette and I enjoy a later breakfast, having both decided to go to that 10 mile spot today. She heads out at 8; I stay behind to do a final sweep and lock up (you have to barricade the front door, climb up the loft, then out the second story window and down the outside ladder; quite the production), and leave about 8:30. I'm expecting to get to camp by 2pm at the latest, so I take the hike fairly leisurely.
About 4 miles in I come to an unpacked jeep road. I start to cross, and hear motors in the distance, and without even thinking about it I run to the other side and up into the woods, like a nervous animal. Sometimes you just do what your gut says and don't ask why. I never did see if a car came by, or not.
The elevation gains are not bad today, so even going slowly I'm making good time. Around the 7 mile mark, near the trailhead to Barker Pass, I come up to another larger, but still unpaved, road. A car drives past and pulls off to the side, just as I climb up to the lip of the road. An older woman opens her door and nods at me. I stop to say hello, and she has some questions about the route I just did, telling me her and her husband are coming out in a few days for a 2 week hike, and she's just caching food and water along the way. She asks a bit about my hike, and I turn on my phone to give her mile markers for different water sources, and realize that my phone has service! I tell her I should check in w my mom, but no call is going through. She offers to let me use her phone, but still nothing. She tells me that when she heads back down into the service area she'll call my mom and tell her I'm alright. Thank you, kind lady! (I never even got her name).
Heading up to Barker pass I run into another older couple as I walk into a clearing to get a picture of Lake Tahoe. They talk my ear off (in a nice way), and tell me they're pretty sure they met Cheryl Strayed (author of Wild) back in the 90s, at this very spot, when she was doing her hike. Not sure how likely it is, but it would be a fun coincidence!
Chatting with these people, while enjoyable, has set me back an hour, but I'm still on track to make it there by 2. I come down Barker Pass, and low and behold: snow! It's fairly manageable and melting quickly, so it doesn't slow me down too much. Will today be the last of the snow?! My gut says no, but at least it's far less than was there a week ago! I sail down the rest of the trail, looking forward to catching up w Bernadette and hearing how her day was. I get to the campsite, and it's empty.
There is no way I could have passed her, unless she took an extended break off trail. Then I worry that she didn't realize this was the campsite (not having gps) and kept going further. I walk a bit further down the trail and call her name. I'm surprised at how incredibly disappointed I am to not have her here. I quickly decide whether I want to do 8 more miles to the next water and campsite. It's only 2pm, and it seems weird to end the day this early, by myself, but I decide to do it anyway. It's like taking a half zero, and I hope my feet and shoulders will pay me back later. I decide it's laundry, bath, and journal day. I'm done with everything by 4...now what?! Relax, enjoy the sun, eat, go to bed, and do it all again tomorrow.
Now that we're out of the snow, it seems the big obstacles are fallen trees that completely block the trail. Most times you just awkwardly step over them, but sometimes you have to go off trail, adding another way to slow you down.
Day 9: Suzie lake to Richardson lake
16.6 mi/ 81.6 total
Slept terrible. The wind was in full force and I slept cold and sporadically. If I wasn't hiking with Beacon and Bernadette, I'd never have gotten up at 5:30.
I force myself to eat my granola, because I know we're going for 16.6 mi today, which will be my longest day so far, and I know I'll need the energy.
We start the uphill climb to get to the base of Dick's Peak, and already my right shoulder is throbbing. It feels like a nerve is pinched, and the pain is shooting down my arm, tingling in my pinky. I can't make my pack more comfortable, no matter how I adjust it. I grit my teeth and continue on with them, pulling up the far rear. When we get to the peak it's switchback after switchback, increasing in 1000 vertical ft of elevation in about a mile. It would be quite so bad, except that the wind has picked up, and we estimate it's about 30-40mph, which just adds another level of fun. We crest the top at about 10am and congratulate ourselves, per, drink and snack. As soon as we start down the other side we see that it is fairly covered with snow, and we will have to periodically check our gps to stay on trail. Bernadette, who has never owned a cellphone, is thrilled to be with us and our trail-finding electronics.
We make fairly good time, even though we are taking a break every 3-4 miles. We reach my usual 13 mi mark around 3pm, and still have more uphills to go--I'm starting to feel the pain. The only thing propelling me now, is my desire to stop. To set up camp. To eat. Two more miles. One more mile. At last we arrive. Beacon has it on good authority that there is a free Dierra Club hiker cabin close by, and he sets out to scout it, while Bernadette and I relax on some logs.
Beacon comes back shortly, beaming (no pun intended), telling us the cabin is amazing. We rally and drag ourselves back to our feet, put on our ever-increasingly heavy gear and follow. When we get there it IS amazing. It's not much--concrete floor, two wooden tables, a couch, and a loft space of wooden floorboards--but to us it means getting out of the cold wind, not having to set up camp, getting to spread out all our gear, and make good in the comfort of a "home".
Beacon takes the loft and Bernadette offers me the couch (YES!) and takes the top of one of the tBles (which she seems way too happy about). We talk and make food (I trade Beacon some chips for a snickers bar, and we both walk away feeling like we got the better deal), rest and look at maps, trying to figure out our respective plans for tomorrow. My choice is simple: 10 miles or 18 miles. There doesn't appear to be any water or a campsite in between, so I have to decide. The decision doesn't end up being that tough, because I feel like I can barely walk right now, so I choose a 10 miles day tomorrow and two 13 mile days to get to Fonner Pass. By 7:45 we all retire to our resting places and settle in for a restful night.
Slept terrible. The wind was in full force and I slept cold and sporadically. If I wasn't hiking with Beacon and Bernadette, I'd never have gotten up at 5:30.
I force myself to eat my granola, because I know we're going for 16.6 mi today, which will be my longest day so far, and I know I'll need the energy.
We start the uphill climb to get to the base of Dick's Peak, and already my right shoulder is throbbing. It feels like a nerve is pinched, and the pain is shooting down my arm, tingling in my pinky. I can't make my pack more comfortable, no matter how I adjust it. I grit my teeth and continue on with them, pulling up the far rear. When we get to the peak it's switchback after switchback, increasing in 1000 vertical ft of elevation in about a mile. It would be quite so bad, except that the wind has picked up, and we estimate it's about 30-40mph, which just adds another level of fun. We crest the top at about 10am and congratulate ourselves, per, drink and snack. As soon as we start down the other side we see that it is fairly covered with snow, and we will have to periodically check our gps to stay on trail. Bernadette, who has never owned a cellphone, is thrilled to be with us and our trail-finding electronics.
We make fairly good time, even though we are taking a break every 3-4 miles. We reach my usual 13 mi mark around 3pm, and still have more uphills to go--I'm starting to feel the pain. The only thing propelling me now, is my desire to stop. To set up camp. To eat. Two more miles. One more mile. At last we arrive. Beacon has it on good authority that there is a free Dierra Club hiker cabin close by, and he sets out to scout it, while Bernadette and I relax on some logs.
Beacon comes back shortly, beaming (no pun intended), telling us the cabin is amazing. We rally and drag ourselves back to our feet, put on our ever-increasingly heavy gear and follow. When we get there it IS amazing. It's not much--concrete floor, two wooden tables, a couch, and a loft space of wooden floorboards--but to us it means getting out of the cold wind, not having to set up camp, getting to spread out all our gear, and make good in the comfort of a "home".
Beacon takes the loft and Bernadette offers me the couch (YES!) and takes the top of one of the tBles (which she seems way too happy about). We talk and make food (I trade Beacon some chips for a snickers bar, and we both walk away feeling like we got the better deal), rest and look at maps, trying to figure out our respective plans for tomorrow. My choice is simple: 10 miles or 18 miles. There doesn't appear to be any water or a campsite in between, so I have to decide. The decision doesn't end up being that tough, because I feel like I can barely walk right now, so I choose a 10 miles day tomorrow and two 13 mile days to get to Fonner Pass. By 7:45 we all retire to our resting places and settle in for a restful night.
Day 8: echo lake to Suzie lake
10 miles/ 65 total
I spent the night with two trail angels (Aletha and Pete) in S. Lake Tahoe, and it was fantastic. They couldn't pick me up until 6, so I spent the day getting in some miles, and enjoying the city for one more day. They fed me wild salmon w fresh asparagus. I should have taken them up on the wine, but felt I better hydrate, instead. We stayed up late talking about politics (they're like minded :) and watching the Giants game.
The post office at Echo Lake is only open from 11am-2pm, so Pete drove me down this morning, after a relaxing breakfast. I resuplied, mailed some gear home, and read a letter (Thanks, Jackie!), and hit the trail around 12:30. Since I had such a late start, I decided to only do about 10 miles. I had met an older woman (Bernadette) at the store, who was even more afraid of any upcoming snow than I am, and has no sort of gps, of which I have relied on a number of times to find the trail in snowy sections. For this very reason, I was doubly glad to give the snow a couple of extra days to melt, while I enjoyed some zero days.
The hike today was mostly over large rocks and granite gravel, as we entered into the foreboding-sounding Desolation Wilderness. It wasn't at all desolate, as I encountered a fair number of day hikers, and no surprise, because the views were great and the lakes lovely. I got to my 10 mi mark around 5pm, and discovered not only Betnadette (who is hiking the Tahoe Rim Trail), but also a PCT hiker I had met in S. Lake named "Beacon". I set up camp w them, grateful to be camping with other hikers and friendly faces. During our respective dinners we decided we would all do the hike tomorrow across Dick's Peak (the highest section of the trail going forward, and the most likely place for more snow). We know there will definitely be snow, but we are all hoping for a minimal amount, and that this will be the last of it.
I've retired to my tent. Tomorrow we leave at 6:30 to try and avoid soft snow and postholes. Adios.
I spent the night with two trail angels (Aletha and Pete) in S. Lake Tahoe, and it was fantastic. They couldn't pick me up until 6, so I spent the day getting in some miles, and enjoying the city for one more day. They fed me wild salmon w fresh asparagus. I should have taken them up on the wine, but felt I better hydrate, instead. We stayed up late talking about politics (they're like minded :) and watching the Giants game.
The post office at Echo Lake is only open from 11am-2pm, so Pete drove me down this morning, after a relaxing breakfast. I resuplied, mailed some gear home, and read a letter (Thanks, Jackie!), and hit the trail around 12:30. Since I had such a late start, I decided to only do about 10 miles. I had met an older woman (Bernadette) at the store, who was even more afraid of any upcoming snow than I am, and has no sort of gps, of which I have relied on a number of times to find the trail in snowy sections. For this very reason, I was doubly glad to give the snow a couple of extra days to melt, while I enjoyed some zero days.
The hike today was mostly over large rocks and granite gravel, as we entered into the foreboding-sounding Desolation Wilderness. It wasn't at all desolate, as I encountered a fair number of day hikers, and no surprise, because the views were great and the lakes lovely. I got to my 10 mi mark around 5pm, and discovered not only Betnadette (who is hiking the Tahoe Rim Trail), but also a PCT hiker I had met in S. Lake named "Beacon". I set up camp w them, grateful to be camping with other hikers and friendly faces. During our respective dinners we decided we would all do the hike tomorrow across Dick's Peak (the highest section of the trail going forward, and the most likely place for more snow). We know there will definitely be snow, but we are all hoping for a minimal amount, and that this will be the last of it.
I've retired to my tent. Tomorrow we leave at 6:30 to try and avoid soft snow and postholes. Adios.
Tuesday, June 10, 2014
Day whichever
Hola!
I have spent the last couple of nights in South Lake Tahoe, after deciding to hitchhike over here from the trail and take a couple days off. It has been pretty great to let my feet heal up a bit, and see the swelling go down in my legs. Not to mention getting to eat pizza and salad, drink a honey-basil beer, and sleep in a bed after taking a hot shower. :)
I'm hoping that by the time I get back on the trail tomorrow, some more of the snow will be gone, and the going will be a little easier (and faster). I couldn't get a lot of my pictures to upload for some reason, so it's hard to give an accurate idea of what I'm making such a big deal about, I assume. Perhaps I need to take more/better pictures. Trial and error.
Kacie is meeting me on the trail in 12 days, and I'm expecting it will take me at least a solid 8 days of hiking to get to our meeting spot--so this gives me a little flexibility if I have to cut down my miles or take another zero or two. I'm getting new shoes sent to me in about 64 miles, so I'm just hoping all goes well until then. No black toenails for me--hopefully!
I've also swapped out some of my gear--sending things home that I don't actually need, and getting some new stuff (like a canister stove) at this nice backpacking store that caters to PCT hikers (of which I am currently using their "backpacker computer" to post). I've learned a lot from other hikers I've encountered about items that I thought were essential, but have since sent home--including my bear spray and camelbak, among other things). Apparently, all the ultralight hikers use gatorade bottles for their water, because you can see exactly how much you have left, instead of sipping away until you unexpectedly have none. I keep wishing I could get rid of more gear--I anticipate pairing down at every stop until I figure out what I can get away with not having. It will be nice to be able to share the gear weight with other person for a little while, at least!
Oh, and I got a haircut! After months of growing my hair out so that I didn't have to worry about it on the trail, I realized that it wasn't any easier. So, yesterday I walked into a salon and told them to chop it! At some point I'll post a picture, once it's all gross again :)
Well, I'm going to rest a bit more, and wait for my Trail Angel to come and pick me up. Getting back on the trail tomorrow, and hoping for no more snow--send good vibes!
-Seattle
I have spent the last couple of nights in South Lake Tahoe, after deciding to hitchhike over here from the trail and take a couple days off. It has been pretty great to let my feet heal up a bit, and see the swelling go down in my legs. Not to mention getting to eat pizza and salad, drink a honey-basil beer, and sleep in a bed after taking a hot shower. :)
I'm hoping that by the time I get back on the trail tomorrow, some more of the snow will be gone, and the going will be a little easier (and faster). I couldn't get a lot of my pictures to upload for some reason, so it's hard to give an accurate idea of what I'm making such a big deal about, I assume. Perhaps I need to take more/better pictures. Trial and error.
Kacie is meeting me on the trail in 12 days, and I'm expecting it will take me at least a solid 8 days of hiking to get to our meeting spot--so this gives me a little flexibility if I have to cut down my miles or take another zero or two. I'm getting new shoes sent to me in about 64 miles, so I'm just hoping all goes well until then. No black toenails for me--hopefully!
I've also swapped out some of my gear--sending things home that I don't actually need, and getting some new stuff (like a canister stove) at this nice backpacking store that caters to PCT hikers (of which I am currently using their "backpacker computer" to post). I've learned a lot from other hikers I've encountered about items that I thought were essential, but have since sent home--including my bear spray and camelbak, among other things). Apparently, all the ultralight hikers use gatorade bottles for their water, because you can see exactly how much you have left, instead of sipping away until you unexpectedly have none. I keep wishing I could get rid of more gear--I anticipate pairing down at every stop until I figure out what I can get away with not having. It will be nice to be able to share the gear weight with other person for a little while, at least!
Oh, and I got a haircut! After months of growing my hair out so that I didn't have to worry about it on the trail, I realized that it wasn't any easier. So, yesterday I walked into a salon and told them to chop it! At some point I'll post a picture, once it's all gross again :)
Well, I'm going to rest a bit more, and wait for my Trail Angel to come and pick me up. Getting back on the trail tomorrow, and hoping for no more snow--send good vibes!
-Seattle
Sunday, June 8, 2014
Day 4
Miles: 14
Total: 50
Today I have a number of blisters that are plaguing me, and slowing me down even more. I'm beginning to think that I made the common rookie mistake of not getting big enough shoes--though I did get slightly bigger shoes, it is just not enough for my swelling feet. I might have to order a pair at my next resuplly, as my feet will only swell bigger.
I had spotty service for about 5 ft on the side of a mountain, so I was able to call my mom for the first time since starting. It's so easy to become lonely and homesick at times, so hearing her voice gave me a pep in my step.
There was more snow, and my scariest snowy mountain pass crossing yet. I had to climb down some crumbling rock (with my trekking poles in one hand) and traverse a 100 ft section of slippy, slushy snow, that extended down the mountain for at least a few hundred feet. I almost freaked out. But I made it across, legs shaking, heart racing, and felt like nothing else could ever be as scary in my life. But we'll see what tomorrow brings. :)
I finally made it to the lower lands, and when I decided to take my shoes off and soak them in a cold stream, THAT was precisely when the Mosquitos decided to show up. I looked ridiculous, hobbling across the trail, carrying my shoes and socks. When I sat down to quickly put them on, I was swarmed by more Mosquitos than I have ever seen. And I live in Minnesota. So I didn't even really bother getting my feet super cleaned off, and just got everything good enough so that I could tear out of there without too many bites. I think I only got 10 or 12 in the 30 seconds I was down. Blegh.
I have been looking forward to Stampede's cabin all day, and hoping I will be able to find it. About a half mile away from the road that I know leads to the cabin (but no idea which direction), I see a woman sitting under a tree. She looks up and says "are you Bree?" She introduces herself as "mrs. Stampede", and asks if I want to come to the cabin. Yay!
At this point I just hit 13 miles for the day, and my feet and legs are killing me. She says once we get to the road it's only another mile to the cabin. I am excited and pained thinking about it. We talk a bit, but she's walking much faster than I am, so we soon lapse into silence. When we finally get there, I am introduced to two of their friends who are up for the weekend, and am instantly aware of how badly I smell and how disheveled I look. They offer me a shower, and it is amazing. I scrape the dirt and grime and sunscreen from my skin, and when I get out, I smell slightly better. I washed some of my clothes in the bathroom sink, and try to find something that doesn't smell too bad to wear around the cabin.
They are all friendly, and they insist that I eat as much as I want! There is cake and chips and pie and a delicious dinner and more dessert and fruit and tea...it was like heaven. They are all from the Bay Area--one person works at Yahoo! Another at Intell...they talk about hanging out at the Google campus...and I'm like "errr...I'm basically a country bumpkin". We stayed up late talking and eating, and it was wonderful. My calves and thighs have become swollen and really tender and tight. I can feel lumps under the skin and I try to rub them out, but I'm still hobbling like I'm 80. I might try to hitch a ride to Echo Lake tomorrow--to give my legs more rest and to avoid anymore treacherous snow passes.
Tonight I sleep in a bed. Like a queen!
Total: 50
Today I have a number of blisters that are plaguing me, and slowing me down even more. I'm beginning to think that I made the common rookie mistake of not getting big enough shoes--though I did get slightly bigger shoes, it is just not enough for my swelling feet. I might have to order a pair at my next resuplly, as my feet will only swell bigger.
I had spotty service for about 5 ft on the side of a mountain, so I was able to call my mom for the first time since starting. It's so easy to become lonely and homesick at times, so hearing her voice gave me a pep in my step.
There was more snow, and my scariest snowy mountain pass crossing yet. I had to climb down some crumbling rock (with my trekking poles in one hand) and traverse a 100 ft section of slippy, slushy snow, that extended down the mountain for at least a few hundred feet. I almost freaked out. But I made it across, legs shaking, heart racing, and felt like nothing else could ever be as scary in my life. But we'll see what tomorrow brings. :)
I finally made it to the lower lands, and when I decided to take my shoes off and soak them in a cold stream, THAT was precisely when the Mosquitos decided to show up. I looked ridiculous, hobbling across the trail, carrying my shoes and socks. When I sat down to quickly put them on, I was swarmed by more Mosquitos than I have ever seen. And I live in Minnesota. So I didn't even really bother getting my feet super cleaned off, and just got everything good enough so that I could tear out of there without too many bites. I think I only got 10 or 12 in the 30 seconds I was down. Blegh.
I have been looking forward to Stampede's cabin all day, and hoping I will be able to find it. About a half mile away from the road that I know leads to the cabin (but no idea which direction), I see a woman sitting under a tree. She looks up and says "are you Bree?" She introduces herself as "mrs. Stampede", and asks if I want to come to the cabin. Yay!
At this point I just hit 13 miles for the day, and my feet and legs are killing me. She says once we get to the road it's only another mile to the cabin. I am excited and pained thinking about it. We talk a bit, but she's walking much faster than I am, so we soon lapse into silence. When we finally get there, I am introduced to two of their friends who are up for the weekend, and am instantly aware of how badly I smell and how disheveled I look. They offer me a shower, and it is amazing. I scrape the dirt and grime and sunscreen from my skin, and when I get out, I smell slightly better. I washed some of my clothes in the bathroom sink, and try to find something that doesn't smell too bad to wear around the cabin.
They are all friendly, and they insist that I eat as much as I want! There is cake and chips and pie and a delicious dinner and more dessert and fruit and tea...it was like heaven. They are all from the Bay Area--one person works at Yahoo! Another at Intell...they talk about hanging out at the Google campus...and I'm like "errr...I'm basically a country bumpkin". We stayed up late talking and eating, and it was wonderful. My calves and thighs have become swollen and really tender and tight. I can feel lumps under the skin and I try to rub them out, but I'm still hobbling like I'm 80. I might try to hitch a ride to Echo Lake tomorrow--to give my legs more rest and to avoid anymore treacherous snow passes.
Tonight I sleep in a bed. Like a queen!
Day 3
Miles: 13
Total: 36
Today was another slow moving day. About half of the time I spent walking across snow, a quarter was spent walking across boggy marshes, and another quarter was spent walking in scrubby desert. The elevation change is still nagging me--sometimes I feel like I can't walk more than 50 feet without having to take a break and catch my breath. But I'll still take that over the snowy mountain passes. I knew this would be hard before I started, but I didn't think it would be hard 100% of the time. Hopefully my body catches up soon.
At about 1:30 two guys in their 50s passed me--Bones and Reboot--and then at about 3:30 I caught up to them. To both of our surprise. They were talking to a day hiking couple, and when the woman heard I didn't yet have a trail name, she said it should be Easter Egg--because I was wearing different combinations of bright yellow and pink. As we walked away from them, the guys told me that it's traditional you get your name from another hiker, and when they heard where I was headed, Reboot started calling me Seattle.
They seemed like really friendly guys, so I decided to stick with them as long as I could. We started going through a flatter desert portion of the trail just as another storm started to roll through, and as we were the tallest things around, booked it another 3 miles in the not too heavy rain to a better camping spot. They have both been hiking since Campo, and met each other on the trail. They told me that this section is the hardest portion of the trail (besides the Sierra's), and that they think I'm doing pretty well for having just started in this section. But I felt like they might have been playing the 'supportive father figure' role. I'll take it.
When they heard that I haven't been able to use my stove, Reboot made us all hot chocolate and said I could use his stove to heat up my food! It was the first day I've actually felt hungry, so both were quite a treat. Another guy (Camvoyage) walked into our area and decided to camp there and wait out the storm, too. We all talked a little bit--sharing stories, and them sharing trail wisdom, and then went to bed about 8. Reboot gave me one of his baselayer shirts because I said I have been sleeping cold because I hadn't expected the snow and colder temps. This helped a little, but I still didn't get much sleep. They headed out on the trail around 6, and when I tried to give the shirt back, he said to keep it and consider it Trail Magic. :)
Total: 36
Today was another slow moving day. About half of the time I spent walking across snow, a quarter was spent walking across boggy marshes, and another quarter was spent walking in scrubby desert. The elevation change is still nagging me--sometimes I feel like I can't walk more than 50 feet without having to take a break and catch my breath. But I'll still take that over the snowy mountain passes. I knew this would be hard before I started, but I didn't think it would be hard 100% of the time. Hopefully my body catches up soon.
At about 1:30 two guys in their 50s passed me--Bones and Reboot--and then at about 3:30 I caught up to them. To both of our surprise. They were talking to a day hiking couple, and when the woman heard I didn't yet have a trail name, she said it should be Easter Egg--because I was wearing different combinations of bright yellow and pink. As we walked away from them, the guys told me that it's traditional you get your name from another hiker, and when they heard where I was headed, Reboot started calling me Seattle.
They seemed like really friendly guys, so I decided to stick with them as long as I could. We started going through a flatter desert portion of the trail just as another storm started to roll through, and as we were the tallest things around, booked it another 3 miles in the not too heavy rain to a better camping spot. They have both been hiking since Campo, and met each other on the trail. They told me that this section is the hardest portion of the trail (besides the Sierra's), and that they think I'm doing pretty well for having just started in this section. But I felt like they might have been playing the 'supportive father figure' role. I'll take it.
When they heard that I haven't been able to use my stove, Reboot made us all hot chocolate and said I could use his stove to heat up my food! It was the first day I've actually felt hungry, so both were quite a treat. Another guy (Camvoyage) walked into our area and decided to camp there and wait out the storm, too. We all talked a little bit--sharing stories, and them sharing trail wisdom, and then went to bed about 8. Reboot gave me one of his baselayer shirts because I said I have been sleeping cold because I hadn't expected the snow and colder temps. This helped a little, but I still didn't get much sleep. They headed out on the trail around 6, and when I tried to give the shirt back, he said to keep it and consider it Trail Magic. :)
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