We finally got up and moving, and I was ready by 9:30, so headed out first, knowing that Milestone would soon catch up with me. We only had 6 miles to Donner's Pass, where I was planning on hitching a ride into Truckee (about 9 miles East), and Milestone was planning on continuing on toward Sierra City.
The first 5 miles went fairly quickly, although we were both a little surprised there were more uphill sections than we had anticipated.
The last mile was filled with mass amounts of Day Hikers walking toward us. Some of them would ask if we were thru hikers (I stay relatively silent in these encounters, because I feel self-conscious saying that I'm just doing a large section, after everyone is so in awe after Milestone says he's walked from Mexico.) I'm realizing it's hard coming on to the trail in the middle. You don't have the same easy report with other hikers who have gone through the most intense early sections like the desert and the high Sierras. Maybe after 500 or so miles, I won't feel quite so self-conscious.
We make it to Donner's pass around noon, and just as Milestone warned me, everyone is just arriving, and it is basically impossible for me to get a hitch. There are tons of people around, but no one who is ready to leave and head back to Truckee, and those driving past just won't stop.
Other day hikers start to take pity on me, waiting with me and encouraging me every time a car starts to come into view. A couple of guys (who were finished hiking, but going the other direction) strike up a conversation with me, and hearing me talk about the All-you-can-eat Sushi place in town that I'm planning on hitting up, one of the guys asks if I'm hungry. I feel like an orphan--Yes, I'm hungry! I'm always hungry! I have food in my pack, but he says he has a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and lunch he won't eat. I pause for about 30 seconds, ready to decline the offer, but instead, what comes out of my mouth is "yes, that would be so nice, thank you!" I'm not destitute or starving, but as soon as he pulls out the brown bag sack and hands it over, I tear into the sandwich like I haven't eaten in days. I'm slightly aware of how ridiculous I might look, but he seems happy to have shared his lunch with a hungry hiker, and I want to show my appreciation by graciously enjoying it in front of him. Half of the sandwich consumed, a car pulls up near us, and I rush over to the older couple and ask them if they're headed to Truckee. I feel bad for harassing people, but not bad enough to stop.
They notice that I've been talking to Milestone, and ask how many are in my group--I say it's just me, and they are far more receptive to giving me a ride. For once it's better to be a girl on the trail. The couple is very friendly, and we have a nice little chat int he 10 miles it takes to drive to town. It's weird when you think about miles everyday, and how long it will take you to get to any given spot, and then suddenly you're wooshed along across a road, covering a distance in 20 minutes, that would normally take me half a day. IT makes you grateful--both to your body and your situation; I hope I remember this feeling when I have a car again. And I hope it makes me consider how I use it.
I've been in contact with a Trail Angel who lives in Truckee, and his policy is that once you get here, he'll host you for however long. I give him a call after the couple drops me off, and he tells me it will be around 6pm before he's able to pick me up. I sit on a bench and eat the rest of my gifted lunch, and feel a bit like a homeless person, as people give me second glances, and I realize that my clothes are filthy, my face and hands are dirty, and I smell not that great. Only when you come into the city from the trail do you feel really aware of how disheveled and gross you must be.
After my delicious lunch (bread!!) I head into the Visitor Center to use their free wifi, and clean myself up in the bathroom. Now I REALLY feel like a homeless person; washing my face and arms in the sink, as other women stare at me. Eh, let them wonder. "Freeloader" (Tom) picks me up at 6, and we head to the store to get stuff for dinner. He's adamant that I choose whatever I want--"do you want ice cream? A pie? Milk or orange Juice? Do you want pancakes in the morning? etc" I'm a bit overwhelmed by the food choices being thrust upon me (I hate making decisions in general, and this is just way too much), and feel guilty that I didn't bring in any money to pay for food. I opt for the less is more mentality, and tell him I am really easy going with food. He seems to want me to be voraciously grabbing at items at the shelves. In the end we get the ice cream, pie, and pancake mix, but I opt for water over alcohol/milk/juice, and he picks up a variety of other items. At dinner he piles food on my plate, and I eat it obediently, not feeling as hungry as I was, but still impressed that I can eat three portions of dinner. He has a friend, Don, who is also staying with him, and I enjoy my evening discussing sustainable housing with Don, and he gives me tips for my own sustainable dream home.
The next morning Freeloader drives me to the post office (which is the reason I came into Truckee) to pick up some packages of gear I want to switch out. The one piece of gear that I desperately need (a battery pack for my phone, since my solar charger stopped working), is not there. After a long conversation with UPS, they tell me they can guarantee it will arrive at Freeloader's house the next day. (fingers crossed)
I spend the rest of the day hanging out at the Visitor Center, walking around town, grabbing lunch and watching the USA vs Ghana game (!!!). I meet "Beowolf" at the Visitor Center, and while I have heard about him, this is the first time I've met him. He's a really nice guy, but says he has to get off the trail and head back to New Hampshire due to money issues, and not being able to complete the trail before his next job starts. We chat for a while, and then he grabs a train out of Truckee, and I head off on my search for food and soccer-watching.
It's about a 4 mile walk back to Freeloader's house, which has suddenly become synonymous with a "short stroll". When did anything under 5 miles start to sound too short to drive? Freeloader passes me about halfway to his house, but I wave him on, enjoying the walk and the time to catch up with people on the phone. More large dinner portions, more interesting conversation, and it's to bed, sleeping in comfort and warmth.
Today has been much like yesterday. I walked into town this morning, making phone calls to solidify travel plans for Kacie and I, grabbing a salad at a coffee shop and watching the Brazil vs. Mexico game. I'm using the Truckee Library (which consists of one large room of books, and two computers) to post, and now I'm off to grab a beer and see if I can catch another soccer game. I think it's going to be especially hard to hit the trail again tomorrow. It's so easy to get sucked into the ease of technology being right at your finger tips, of getting any type of food that you want whenever you want it, of smoothies and crafted coffee, of TV sports games and soft cushy beds, and mostly of hot showers. It gets harder and harder to leave these conveniences. I should really STOP coming into towns! But, I'm doing this for enjoyment and fun, after all, and town stops are a part of the social aspect of the greater PCT community. So...I'll enjoy it while I have it.
Fun round table discussion of past PCT thru-hikers taking place in Truckee...too bad it's a few days from now.
I get to cuddle with Freeloader's dog, Cayenne, which is no substitute for my dog, Ellie, but it's something.
Oh, the Truckee Library. Oh cute and quaint and tiny. Thanks for your computers!
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